Mexico City Ambles: Folk Dance in Mexico City

Mexican popular culture is distinguished by its exuberance. It is effusive, overflowing with enthusiasm, excitement (emoción), cheerfulness (alegría) and vigor (ánimo). It is full of energy, noise and bright colors. Nowhere is this more true than in Mexico's traditional folk dances.

Mexican folk dance.
Each state has its own distinctive, traditional style of dance and dress.
Here the style is that of the state of Tabasco,
on the southeastern coast of the Gulf of Mexico.

Dance of Los Viejitos, the Little Old Men
Michoacán

Zapoteca corn planting dance,
from the southern state of Oaxaca

Yucatán,
the eastern peninsula, separating the Caribbean from the Gulf of Mexico.
Note the Cuban influence.

Jalisco,
on the Pacific coast:
Mexican Hat Dance

Veracruz,
on the western coast of the Gulf of Mexico

Folk Dance in the Big City

When we lived in the rural, small city of Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, there were two or three amateur folk dance companies, based in public schools, but with many adult members. They performed frequently and were excellent. As a balletomane—lover of the dance, in any form—their performances captivated us. When we moved to Mexico City, we knew the world-famous Ballet Folklórico de México was here, but we did not come across amateur groups like those in Pátzcuaro. That is, until recently.

At a couple of recent patron saint fiestas taking place in Mexico City's original villages—in San Pedro Tláhuac and Santa María Natividad—part of the festivities included performances by small, amateur folk dance companies. Being a balletomane, we took lots of photos, but apart from including a few in the Santa María post, we didn't know what to do with them.

Then, about two weeks ago, on our Facebook page, we saw an announcement of a series of performances by the Ballet Folklórico del Valle de México. the Folkloric Ballet of the Valley of Mexico. One performance was to be held on a Sunday afternoon in the central plaza of the southern Delegación Tlalpan—a picturesque, tranquil Spanish Colonial plaza with a small-town feeling. We visit it often to relax from the urban bullicio (hubbub) and enjoy a delicious, unhurried comida (afternoon meal) at one of the many restaurants lining the square.

Off to Delegación Tlalpan for Ballet Folklórico

So this past Sunday, we set off by taxi at about 11 AM in order to arrive at Tlalpan plaza before the 12 noon performance. When we arrive, we see the stage set on the stone esplanade in front of the ayuntamiento, headquarters of the delegación. A small audience is begining to occupy the plastic folding chairs set up for them.

The open-air stage is partially covered by a huge, bright yellow tarp, casting a yellow tint down the front of the stage; in contrast, the back of the stage is in the strong Mexican sun. Also in the background, reflecting and intensifying the sunlight, are white tents shading the puestos (stalls) where artesania, arts and crafts, are sold on the weekends.

Managing the strong lighting contrasts presents a genuine photographic challenge. Checking out several positions to find the best possible option, we settle on the corner at stage right, where the gray stone ayuntamiento partially provides a softer, more neutral background. We establish ourselves because we know that if we move away, some other photographer will take it.

Soon, over a PA system (always loud in Mexico), an announcer calls primera llamada (yah-MAH-dah), first call. It is a tradition at Mexican performances to make a series of three llamadas, calls, to alert the audience to the approaching performance. The calls mirror the three llamadas sounded by the ringing of a church's bell before every Mass. In a few minutes, segunda llamada is made followed in short order by the tercera llamada. Lively music issues from the large speakers at each side of the stage (one right next to our ears!) and dancers enter the stage from steps at the rear. The show begins!

Danza Azteca

These two are real bailarín(a)s,
ballet-trained dancers!
Great balance, leg extension and pointed toes!

We also note a very young dancer (age 7? 8?)
fully into the dance.

These aren't the Aztec dancers we see at church fiestas or in the Zócalo. Obviously, their dance has been formally choreographed and costumed for a show. Folk dance performances often begin with this reference to the pre-Conquest Aztec culture.

Spanish Mexico

The next dance transports us to post-Conquest Mexico and its transformation into an extension of Spain: full, colorful skirts over generous, white petticoats.

La bailarina shines!

Indigenous, Purépecha Fisherman's Dance

Two young boys enact fish, to be caught by the local fishing community.

This transports us directly back to "our" Pátzcuaro and its Lake. The Lake is known for its special species of small white fish. The embroidery on one of the boys' pants is distinctively Purépecha.

Going fishing.
The men's sombreros are also distinctively Purépecha,
as are the women's rebozos, shawls,

The Catch!
The fish are then released, instead of being taken home to become a meal.

Dance of the Moors

The Dance of the Moors was the first folk dance we ever saw in Mexico, performed in a pueblo on the shore of Lake Pátzcuaro on the night of the Purépecha celebration of Nuevo Fuego, New Fire, the indigenous New Year, on February 1-2 (mid-winter). In that performance, the dancers wore long robes and capes; similar scarves covered their faces, and the tall hats they donned were somewhat different.

The Dance of the Moors, like the Battle of the Moors and Christians that we have seen enacted at fiestas here in Mexico City, was introduced by the Franciscan friars to convey the message of the need for "pagans" to submit to Catholic Christian conversion, i.e., the Spiritual Conquest.

Campesino Romance

Spanish influence is seen in a romantic pas de deux.
Indigenous dances are always religious rituals
or celebrate humans' dependence on nature.
Here, the barefoot country maiden attracts the young farmer,
a universal story.

He shows off for the maiden with a balletic jeté.

The romance progresses.

Cowboys and Cowgirls: It's Hoedown Time!

Already, a dancer!
Geat arabesque!

Then the big boys and girls get into the act!
(Reminder: Cows and cowboys--and cowgirls--came to the United States
from Spain via Mexico (the original "Southwest")

"Spin your partner!"

Mexican Cossacks, or What?

Totally comsumed with finding and capturing "shots", we weren't able to attend to the announcements of each dance. Given the ankle rattles, this one is evidently indigenous, but we have no idea who these guys are portraying. Their moves remind us of Cossack dancers from a Russian ballet.