Showing posts with label Mexican muralism. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mexican muralism. Show all posts

Friday, November 24, 2017

Mexican Muralists | Diego Rivera´s Murals in the National Palace, Part II: Some of Mexico's Original Civilizations

When we recently entered the National Palace to view Diego Rivera's mural of The History of Mexico, we didn't know that we would encounter another whole series of Rivera murals portraying what might be called the pre-history of Mexico, that is, of some of the indigenous civilizations that existed prior to the arrival of the Spanish in 1519.

On the right side of the stairwell housing "The History of Mexico"
is a mural portraying some of the elements of indigenous civilization.


At the top, the Sun god, Tonatiuh, watches everthing.
To the left, a volcano, perhaps Popocatépetl, the Smoking Mountain, erupts.

Floating in the sky to the right is Quetzalcóatl, the Plumed Serpent,
god of knowledge and culture.

Below him, to the right, a corn festival is celebrated.

In the center, wearing a green tocado (headdress) made of quetzal bird feathers,
is the tlatoani (speaker, i.e. chief), surrounded by his council of elders.

Below the council, a group grinds corn on a metate and makes tortillas,
the Mexican staple food for 10,000 years.


To their left, porters or tradesmen (pochtecas) carry large packs.

Lower left, a battle is fought between rival groups.
Those in elaborate costumes are likely Aztecs/Mexicas of Tenochtitlan.

Walking up the staircase below the mural, to the second floor and turning left, we encounter a series of murals portraying various regional civilizations.

Tenochtitlan
City of the Aztec/Mexica

A lord watches, possibly supervising
the tianguis, the open-air market below him where trade flourishes.

Above, men form large rolls of unknown material and purpose.

Behind is the Templo Mayor, the Great Temple
dualy dedicated to Huitzilopochtli, God of War and patron of Tenochtitlan,
and Tlaloc, agricultural god of all waters.

Beyond stretches the city, with its canals and many other temples.
To the right, above, in the far distance, is the Templo Mayor
and the sacred district around it.
The causeway leads to Tlacopan (now Tacuba),
along which Cortés and his men were to flee
on la Noche Triste, the Night of Sorrows.

At the upper right corner, are the snow-covered volcanoes that form Iztaccíhuatl,
the Sleeping Princess.

(The mural actually stretches farther to the left and right, beyond our photo:
the narrow balcony prevented standing far enough away to take in the whole.
)

Detail of the tianguis
(left side)

Detail of the tianguis
(middle)

Detail of the tianguis
(right side)
The woman in white, selling calla lillies, is an image much used by Rivera.

However, calla lillies are native to South Africa; hence, their presence is anachronistic.

Zapotecs of  Oaxaca
Portraying various crafts,
including feather art for headdresses
and the refining and working of gold.

Totonaca of El Tajín, Veracruz

Tradesmen (left) arrive from the central highlands, possibly Toltecs from Tula,
which was contemporary with El Tajín (600 to 1200 CE), likely a Totonaca city.
They seek to trade for tropical products such as vanilla and rubber

that grow along what is now the west coast of the Gulf of Mexico.

In the background is the city of El Tajín, with its
Pyramd of the Niches,
voladores, flying dancers in bird costumes, and
ball court (far left; El Tajín has 20 courts, by far the most found
at any Mesoamerican site).

Maíz, corn cultivation,
Chinampas, artificial islands in the lakes,
such as Xochimilco and Chalco,
 of the Valley of Anahuac
(now Valley of Mexico).

Chalchiuhtlicue,
goddess of springs, lakes and rivers,
stands mid-left.

Purépecha culture of Michoacán

Rivera portrays them cultivating cotton (rear left),
and weaving and dying fabrics.
A Purépecha lord oversees.

Lake Pátzcuaro is in the background.

The Purépecha were contemporaneous with the Axteca/Mexica,
but were never conquered by them.

Mexican Muralists | Diego Rivera´s Murals in the National Palace, Part I: "History of Mexico"

Confronting the Daunting National Palace


We admit it. Although we initiated our Ambles around the City in the Zócalo, the huge plaza in Centro Histórico that is the heart of Mexico City, we have stayed away from the National Palace dominating its east side. Similarly, we had stayed away from the Metropolitan Cathedral, on its north side, until we were able to come to terms with, and write about Mexican Baroque architecture, of which the inside of the Cathedral is the quintessential example.

Like the Cathedral, the National Palace is intimidating in its grandeza, grandeur, and off-putting because of its associations with the history of Mexican authoritarian governments. The fact that this symbolic center of Mexican democracy is called a palace is indicative of the paradox of Mexican government: is it, or is it not, a democracy?

The Palace—first of Cortés, then the Spanish Viceroy,
then of the Mexican government—has been
rebuilt and expanded many times over nearly 500 years.
The third story was added in the 1920s, after the Mexican Revolution. 

Nevertheless, as we were recently publishing some posts on Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo borrowed from our spouse, Jane's "Jenny's Journal of Mexican Culture", we decided it was time to cross the threshold into the Palace to see Rivera's mural of the History of Mexico. We had also read that one could see through a window on the floor a part of what was once the private prayer room of Moctezuma the Younger in what had been his "New Houses". After destroying the house of Moctezuma, Cortés built the Palace on that site.

At the Center of Mexico's Heart, Tranquility


Visitors to the Palace enter via a side door on the north side, on Moneda (Coin) Street (the former mint was just behind the Palace). We had often glimpsed the inner courtyard as we passed by on our way to other destinations in East Centro. It looked inviting. When we finally enter, we find a beautifully landscaped, tranquil garden, an oasis in the very center of the City's bullicio, hubbub.

Inner courtyard,
in the rear of the Palace.

Formal, front courtyard,
used for Presidential speeches and other formal events.
Rivera murals are in the stairwell from this courtyard and on the second floor.

Diego Rivera's Vision of Mexico's Complex and Complicated History


The History of Mexico
by Diego Rivera
1929 to 1935

Our initial reaction is one of being visually and mentally overwhelmed.
There are a huge number of figures, all apparently jumbled together,
with no obvious organization.

Then we notice five arches overhead. Looking more closely,
we see that within each are group portraits of various people,

apparently in 19th century dress, recent Mexian history at Rivera´s time.

Below these five groups, across the middle of the mural,
we realize there are a series of scenes of Spanish colonial life.

At the bottom, within a triangle, is a portrayal of the Spanish Conquest.

So, to "read" the mural and grasp Rivera's vision
of Mexico's compleja y complicada, complex and complicated, history,
we must start at the bottom, and move upward. 

Part I: The Violent Spanish Conquest (1519-21)


The Spanish Conquest of the Aztecs/Mexicas

The History begins in the bottom, triangular space.
It portrays the Spanish attacks on indigenous warriors.
This section of the mural also requires visually separating it into parts in order to truly "see" it, 
i.e., take in and experience it in a comprehensible manner.

Starting from the left, we see Spanish soldiers and some of their indigenous allies
attacking Jaguar Warriors, an elite Aztec/Mexica corps. 

Middle portion of the Conquest section of the mural.

We are viscerally struck by the military and cultural differences
between the Spanish cavalry and indigenous warriors in symbolic garb. 

Right-hand portion of the Conquest section.
Rivera pulls no punches in portraying the violence of the Conquest.

Part II: Life in Spanish Colonial New Spain (1521-1823)


"Reading" from the left, across the middle band
we see portrayals of Colonial Nueva España, New Spain.

At left, an indigenous man is branded as a slave.
At right, the Franciscan Diego de Landa Calderón burns Mayan books in the Yucatán.
Above them, indigenous workers build Nueva España, New Spain, for the Spanish.

Next, under a canopy, the Viceroy and the Archbishop
oversee autos de fe, trials and executions of supposed heretics,
i.e., persons not maintaining the Catholic Faith.

In the fourth scene (we'll return to the third shortly),
Spanish friars carry out the conversion and baptism of the indigenous peoples,
the so-called Spiritual Conquest whose vestiges we have been exploring in many posts
on the Original Indigenous Villages of Mexico City.

In the fifth scene, indigenous men labor as virtual slaves in the mines.
Mexican silver financed the expansion of Spanish power in Europe.

In the third, middle, scene, at the center of the grand mural,
Father Miguel Hidalgo, proclaims the War for Independence from Spain.

Immediately to the left of Hidalgo is Ignacio Allende (in Spanish Army uniform);
to the right is Jose María Morelos, who took leadership of the rebellion
after Hidalgo and Allende were captured and executed.

Far left, with red crown, is Agustín Iturbide,
Spanish Army general who joined the almost elimnated rebels in 1821,
defeated the Spanish, and had himself declared Emperor of Mexico.

To the right of Iturbide is Guadelupe Victoria
 (in red vest, holding the Mexican flag),
a rebel who, after Iturbide was deposed, became the first President of Mexico.

The other figures are other persons who played roles in the War,
but their identification is beyond us.

Part III: Mexico of the 19th and early 20th Centuries


The top row of the mural, under the arches, portrays scenes from 19th and 20th century Mexican history, primarily one of foreign army interventions (the U.S. and France), and civil wars between wealthy conservatives—supporting the privileges and powers of the Army and the Catholic Church—and liberals seeking a democratic, egalitarian government (the mid-19th century War of Reform and the early 20th century Mexican Revolution). For some reason, Rivera did not not present them in chronological order. He placed the Mexican Revolution at the center, above the War for Independence.  We present them in historical order, to make the story more comprehensible to extranjeros, foreigners. 

Defense of Chapultepec Castle
from U.S. forces in 1847
during the War of the U.S. Intervention (aka 
Mexican-American War in the U.S.).
It is the American eagle arriving, holding arrows in its claws.

The fall of the castle, which served as the military academy,
was the last battle in the U.S. capture of Mexico City.

President James Polk intitiated the war to gain California from Mexico,
which had refused to sell it. 
So, losing the war, Mexico's was forced to surrender half of its territory,
virtually all of the currnent U.S. Southwest and west. 

Benito Juárez and the Laws of Reform

Conservative President Santa Ana
a Spanish Army general who had joined Iturbide to win the War of Independence,
but then joined the rebellion to overthrowm him as Emperor,
had been president several times since 1833. 
He had lost Texas in 1836 and the War of the U.S. Intervention in 1847,
and had gone into exile abroad each time.
Nevertheless, he was called back from exile by conservatives 
to be president once again in 1853 to oppose a liberal uprising.

In 1855, liberal forces succeeded in deposing him. 
They established a new government and issued a series of Laws of Reform, 
mostly written by Benito Juárez, a lawyer and President of the Supreme Court
 ( the moreno, dark-skinned Zapotec indigenous man, holding laws in his hand). 
These laws took autonomous power from the Army and property from the Catholic Church.
(Note fat friar, Army general and Bishop, and others with their hands in the kitty.)

In 1857, conservative generals, in turn, overthrew the liberal govenment. 
Upon the surrender of liberal president, Ignacio Comonfort, Juárez became president.
He took the government to various cities in Mexico 
and engaged in the War of Reform (1857-61).
Defeating the conservatives at the end of 1860, Juárez and his government
returned to Mexico City on Jan. 1, 1861.

Figures on each side of Juárez are other persons in the Reform Period (1855-1876).

The French Intervention
1861-1867


In reaction to the liberal victory in the War of Reform, 
conservatives went to Emperor Napoleon III of France 
and asked that he select some European royal to become Emperor of Mexico.
Prince Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph of Austria, younger brother of Emperor Franz Joseph I,
accepted Napoleon's offer and came to Mexico to become Emperor Maximillian I.

The liberals, led by Juárez, waged war against him. 
In 1866, Napoleon, under pressure from the U.S. and others factors in Europe,
 withdrew French troops, leaving Maximillian with only the support of 
conservative Mexican generals and their troops.
The next year, in mid-May 1867, Maximilian
(red-haired, bearded figure, far right) was captured and executed a month later.
.
Mexican conservative Generals Miguel Miramón and Tomás Mejía were executed with him.
The fleeing eagle is evidently that of the Austrian Empire.

Mexican Revolution (1910-1917)

President and dictator Porfirio Díaz (1876-1911), 
(at left, in military uniform, many medals and presidential sash)
was overthrown by forces led by Francisco Madero 
(light-skinned, bearded man, wearing presidential sash, right of center).
Madero was overthrown and assassinated in Feb. 1913, by Victoriano Huerta
(military figure, at right of Díaz, wearing presidential sash).
  
Then, Venustiano Carranza (white-bearded figure, wearing presidential sash, lower right), 
Pancho Villa (dark-skinned figure in sombrero behind Carranza), and
Emiliano Zapata (mustached figure in sombrero, upper right)
waged war to overthrow Huerta in 1914.
Carranza subsequently fought and defeated Villa and Zapata, 
becoming President in 1917, and ending the formal series of wars. 

Mexican Revolution and Beyond

In 1920, Carranza was overthrown and assassinated by his former general, Álvaro Obregón, 
because Carranza overlooked him in choosing a successor.
In 1924, Plutarco Calles (far left figure holding eagle standard) became president. 
After the assassination of Obregón, who had been reelected president in 1928, 
Calles maintained power as "chief boss."
In 1934, Lázaro Cárdenas (at right of Calles, wearing presidential sash) 
became president and sent Calles into exile. 

The mural was finished in 1935, just after Cárdenas took power.
He was seen as a liberal, even socialist, 
who implemented many of the labor and land reforms sought by the Revolution
and written into the new Constitution of 1917, but not carried out.
In back,
Emiliano Zapata (killed by agents of Carranza in 1919) and an
industrial worker in blue overalls, hold the banner "Land and Liberty".

This represents Rivera's hope for a true, communist revolution,
such as he portrayed in his mural, "Ballad of the Revolution"
in the Secretariat of Education.

Rivera's Vision of a True, Marxist-Communist Revolution


The Mexican Revolution was a very ambiguous series of conflicts between los de abajo, those from below (represented by Pancho Villa and Emiliano Zapata) and los de arriba, those from above, represented by Carranza). The outcome was, likewise, ambiguous. Carranza became president, but was forced to accept a Constitution that included a list of "rights", such as to work and an education, sought by the popular forces. Much power, however, was given to the president, such that, despite a Congress and a Supreme Court, he could essentially ignore the liberal articles of the Constitution. 

Like many other Mexican artists and intellectuals, Rivera was a communist and was disappointed by the authoritarian path the post-revolution government was taking. (In 1936, he painted a mural entitled "The Dictator", in which he portrayed Calles as a Fascist; the mural is now in Bellas Artes.) He continued to hope for a real revolution of the agrarian and working class that would overthrow the capitalist powers. As he had done in his "Ballad of the Revolution", here in the National Palace, the very seat of government, in the stairway to the left of The History of Mexico, he also painted a vision of that hope.


A Strike,
like one that actually occurred in the Cananea copper mine,
in the northern state of Sonora, in 1906.
The mine was owned by a U.S. company,
and the strike was suppressed by Mexican soldiers
and volunteer "rangers" from Arizona.
The men who have been hung are labeled
"anarchist" and "communist".

Call for a Communist Revolution of Workers (hammer) and Farmers (sickle),
suppressed by soldiers wearing gas masks (like those used in World War I)

Corrupt, immoral Capitalist Class,
focused entirely on money (scrutinizing stock market ticker tape, upper left).
Note the priest, engaged with a prostitute, at left.

Karl Marx and the Communist Manifesto
(at very top of mural).

"All of the history of human society, up to today,
is a history of the struggle of the classes.
For us, it doesn't have to do precisely
with transforming private property,
but to abolish it.
It doesn't have to do
with blurring the differences between the classes,
but of their destruction.
It doesn't have to do
with reforming the present society,
but of forming a new one."
Karl Marx

Needless to say, Rivera's vision was never realized in Mexico. Led by Calles and then Cárdenas, the Party of the Institutional Revolution (PRI) (an oxymoron of a name) consolidated power into a one-party political system, not unlike what also actually happened in Russia. This system lasted until 2000, when Vicente Fox of the National Action Party won the presidency. However, the PRI returned to power in 2012, led by Enrique Peña Nieto. The mixture of democratic forms with authoritarian ways of operating, which goes all the way back to the beginning of an independent Mexico, is ongoing.

Monday, November 13, 2017

Diego Rivera's and Frida Kahlo's 'Twin Houses' and Studios

Revolutionary Architecture


Nothing Diego Rivera or Frida Kahlo did was remotely conventional. So when Diego set out to build a house to be shared with his wife, Frida, in Colonia San Ángel, it is not surprising that he asked his friend and fellow muralist, the young architect Juan O'Gorman, to design it.

A recent graduate of the National Autonomous University of Mexico, O’Gorman began his architectural career designing spare, rectilinear houses and buildings in the style of the Functionalist architect Le Corbusier. The result: completion in 1932 of the Casas Gemelas, Twin Houses. Diego's is the red and white house; Frida's is the blue. A bridge famously connects the two houses. The building is distinguished for being one of the first constructed in the Functionalist style in Latin America.

'Twin Houses' of Diego Rivera (red and white) and Frida Kahlo (blue) 
famously connected by a  footbridge!
The cactus fence is traditional in Mexican rural pueblos.

Functionalism sought to meet the basic needs of its users, but it was also a movement in rebellion against the excessive ornamentation of the 19th century. During the Porfiriato, the reign of dictator Porfirio Díaz (1876-1911), who was an avid Francophile, the preferred styles in Mexico City were ornate French Second Empire and Beaux Arts. Wealthy Mexicans even continued to build homes in these styles after the Revolution (1910-17) in La Roma and other neighborhoods west of Centro that had been created at the beginning of the 20th century. O'Gorman and other leftist architects sought to break with these traditions and create a post-revolutionary, modern style. 

The embodiment of this radical change in the "Twin Houses" is strikingly evident in their contrast with their neighbors in Colonia of San Ángel, due west of Coyoacán. As in Coyoacán, the dominant architectural style in San Ángel is Spanish Colonial. Remarkably, the houses are not particularly jarring aesthetically vis-a-vis the surrounding ones, perhaps because of the traditional Mexican cactus fence that separates the house and property from the street.

Ornate Spanish Colonial door—
the very ornamentation 
the Functionalists rebelled against.

Historical Context


When the Mexican Revolution (1910-1917) led to the development of a new government during the 1920s, it was time not only to rebuild the country but to generate a new image of unity and change. An earlier post discussed Diego's time in Europe and his return (1921) to Mexico at the request of President Obregón and Secretary of Public Education Vasconcelos in order to develop a public art to foster national identity. Diego threw himself passionately into the work, which resulted in what is recognized today as the Mexican Mural Movement.

It makes sense that all the arts would be called upon to contribute to this national project. As a new architectural concept, Functionalism seemed to serve not only these interests, but the needs of a new generation as well. Not only did the Functionalists seek to use new construction materials (cement, glass and metal), but they tended toward an aesthetic that was industrial and modern—an aesthetic that could open the door to new construction methods and new styles of life for a new age.

Diego Rivera's Studio at Casas Gemelas


One enters the property facing Diego's House. When I saw the ascending spiral, I immediately thought of Frida's severe mobility issues and thought, "Oh, this is great—no stairs!"

Spiral Entryway to Rivera's House-Studio
But I was wrong!
Spiral Staircase.

On both first and second floors, doors open from landings to give entry to the house. All I could think was, "How on earth did Frida Kahlo—with her serious mobility issues—ever manage these stairs?" The short answer is: She didn't—or at least, she didn't for very long. (See: Frida Kahlo House Museum for the full story)

Walking into Diego's studio, I had an unexpected—and very positive—visceral reaction to the space. The studio is two stories tall, and the light is extraordinary. The east wall is glass, but light also enters the room from windows mounted in soffit-like structures next to the roof. The effect is nearly indescribable—diffuse yet remarkably full.

Diego Rivera's Studio
floor to ceiling windows, 
and full of Diego's collected art objects.

The hardwood floors are brilliantly waxed. I had the feeling the artist was expected to return at any moment.

Diego's Studio is upstairs; 
in the window are Judas figures.

Diego had a large collection of papier mache Judas figures (ritually burned the night before Easter Sunday) and calaveras (skeletons).

Judas figure

Calaveras, skeleton figures

Lovers of everything 'Mexican', Diego and Frida collected prehispanic pieces (about 59,000!); folk art from all parts of Mexico; Judas and calaveras figures; and many juguetes (toys, miniatures). 

Many prehispanic pieces are now in the garden of Frida Kahlo's Casa Azul, Blue House, in Coyoacán, but the majority of the pieces are housed in the Diego Rivera Anahuacalli Museum, also in Coyoacán. One exception is this object, below, exhibited in Diego's studio. It must have been in the studio when Rivera was alive because it appears in the painting he made of his own studio (below).

Cha'ac mool (Mayan name)
prehispanic altar for hyman sacrific

Diego's painting of the jumble in his studio, including the cha'ac mool (bottom right), calaveras, Judas figures, and a beautiful, reclining woman—possibly Dolores Olmedo?

Rivera's painting of his studio

Rivera's Painting 


In this studio, Diego Rivera painted over 3,000 portraits and portrayals of everyday Mexican life. Of Rivera's style, it has been said:
Rivera defines his solid, somewhat stylized human figures by precise outlines rather than by internal modeling. The flattened, simplified figures are set in crowded, shallow spaces and are enlivened with bright, bold colours. The Indians, peasants, conquistadores, and factory workers depicted combine monumentality of form with a mood that is lyrical and at times elegiac.
Indigenous Woman
a painting in the studio

Niña, little girl

Diego lived and worked in this house until his death in 1957.

Frida Kahlo at Casas Gemelas


When in 1934 Diego and Friday returned from a three-year stay in the United States, they moved into Diego's houses. Frida lived and painted there for six years. I actually asked a guard how on earth Frida managed all the stairs. The guard smiled as she answered—clearly, it was not the first time she had answered the question! She said that Diego had full-time help whose job it was to make it easier for Frida to move around the house.


Frida Kahlo at Casas Gemelas

But Frida did important work at the Casas Gemelas, including her paintings Lo que el agua me dio (What the water gave me), El ojo avizor (The Lookout), and El difunto Dimas (Dead Dimas). Only one of Frida's paintings remains in her house at Casas Gemelas:

Frida painted this surreal set of images 
while sitting in the bathtub. 
Her feet are reflected in the water. 

The Empire State Building 
rises from an erupting volcano; 
Below, left, is one of her corseted dresses.
She lies nude beside it. 
Her German father and Mexican mother 
are portrayed standing (lower right). 
In front of them is a couch 
where Frida reclines with a woman 
(Frida was bisexual). 

Days after her father's death in 1941, Frida moved back to the Casa Azul in Coyoacán, where she had grown up and where she died in 1954.

Originally published in Jenny'a Journal of Mexican Culture.

Still Curious?

Related Jenny's Journal posts:
Interesting discussion of Diego Rivera's impact on public art in the United States.

The Rivera-Kahlo House Museum
(red/yellow star)
is in Colonia San Ángel Inn,
just east of Colonia San Ángel (red)
in Delegación Álvaro Obregón,
in western Mexico City.

Saturday, June 3, 2017

Mexican Mural Movement: Roberto Montenegro and a New Beginning of the Movement

    

One Artistic Encounter Leads to Another


The serendipity that occurs in life when one is exploring one thing and coincidentally runs across something else of value, makes for wonderful moments. Such moments seem to occur frequently in our Ambles through Mexico City. Recently, we went to explore Carlos Monsiváis' curiously named Museum of the Corner Store (Museo del Estanquillo) in Centro Histórico. While perusing the author's very diverse collection of mementos of the 20th century, we were stopped in our tracks by a simple but forceful portrait by a Mexican painter we had not previously heard of, Roberto Montenegro.

ó
Portrait of a Mexican

By Roberto Montenegro, 1930

We were so struck by the power of the portrait that we knew we had to learn more about the artist and find out if he had other work on display in Mexico City.

Later, checking Wikipedia, we learned something of the artist's biography, including something that greatly surprised us.

Life and Times of Roberto Montenegro


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Roberto Montenegro

Born in 1885 in Guadalajara, Montenegro's education began at a school for boys where he had his first experience with drawing. This led to meeting the Italian Felix Bernardelli, who had a painting and music school in Guadalajara. Bernardelli introduced Montenegro to Art Nouveau.

In 1903, at age 18, he was sent by his father to Mexico City to study architecture. Through his cousin, the poet Amado Nervo, he was able to meet many of Mexico City's social elite. From 1904 to 1906 he studied drawing and history at the Academy of San Carlos. Among his classmates was Diego Rivera. In 1906, he and Rivera were finalists for an art scholarship to go to Europe. The decision was made by coin toss, with Montenegro winning. Nevertheless, months later, Rivera would also be given a scholarship to go. Montenegro went first to Madrid, where he studied at the Academy of San Fernando. He became a passionate visitor to the Prado Museum, studying the works of El Greco and Goya, among others

From 1907 to 1910 he was in Paris where he had his first contact with Cubism, meeting Picasso, Georges Braque and Juan Gris. He also met Aubrey Beardsley and Rubén Darío, who reinforced his early exposure to Art Nouveau. While in Paris his work was exhibited. He also traveled to London and Italy. He returned briefly to Mexico in 1910 but by 1913 he returned to Paris, studying at the École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts and collaborating with Rubén Darío on an art magazine called Revista Mundial (World Magazine), to which he contributed illustrations. When World War I broke out in 1914, he moved to Barcelona, then to the island of Mallorca, where he painted and also made a living fishing. Wikipedia

A "New" Beginning to the Mexican Mural Movement


Montenegro returned to Mexico in 1921, in response to an invitation from José Vasconcelos, the first Secretary of Public Education after the Mexican Revolution. Herein lies what so surprised us.

Vasconcelos' invitation was to paint murals related to Mexican life and culture in public buildings in Mexico City to help forge a Mexican sense of national identity. He sent the same invitation to Rivera and David Siqueiros, both of whom were in Paris, and to José Clemente Orozoco, who was in the United States. Apparently, Montenegro was the first of the four to return to Mexico City and go to work on Vasconcelos' vision.

Thus, Montenegro was actually the first Mexican artist to create murals in public spaces, before Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco or David Siqueiros—"The Great Three"! He, not they, initiated the Mural Movement!

Wikipedia also tells us that the murals, or at least one of those that Montenegro painted, still exist in the former Colegio de San Pedro y San Pablo, College of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Centro Histórico, less than a block from the former College of San Ildefonso, where, until now, we (and most people) had believed the Mural Movement began with the first murals created by the "Great Three".

So on a recent Saturday morning, we take Metro Line 2  from Coyoacán to the Zócalo. Walking up a newly opened pedestrian walkway between the Cathedral and the Aztec/Mexica Templo Mayor, we soon arrive at the former College of St. Peter and St. Paul.

Former College of St. Peter and St. Paul.

College with a Complex History


San Pedro y San Pablo College was built in late 16th and early 17th centuries. The official founding occurred in 1574 with the name of Colegio Máximo de San Pedro y San Pablo (Great College of Saints Peter and Paul). It was called "Máximo" because it was built to oversee the training of priests in Mexico City and other parts of New Spain. Construction began in 1576. The church section was built between 1576 and 1603. An annex was completed in 1603, and the rest of the college complex was finished in 1645. The purpose of the college was to provide university-level education to young criollo men, descended from Spanish settlers. 

After the expulsion of the Jesuits in 1767 from colonial Mexico, the college closed. The school building was given to civil authorities, who first used it as a barracks, and later to house the Nacional Monte de Piedad, a pawn "shop" and charity foundation that is still a major institution; in effect, it provides small personal loans in exchange for some collateral. The church building was transferred to Augustinians, who removed most of its decoration.

Fifty years later, in 1816, when the Jesuits received permission to return to colonial Mexico, they found the complex nearly in ruins. They worked to rebuild both the church and the school. However, San Pedro y San Pablo College never again functioned as such, due to the concurrent Mexican War of Independence against Spain.

Shortly after Mexican independence was achieved in 1821, several important events took place in the church building. In 1823, after proclaiming the independence of Mexico, Agustín de Iturbide held meetings there which led to the promulgation of the "Reglamento Provisional del Imperio" (Provisional Regulations of the Empire). The following year, after Emperor Agustín was deposed, the initial sessions of the Constitutional Congress were held there, during which the first Federal Constitution of Mexico was written. Subsequently, in 1824 Guadalupe Victoria was sworn in there as the first president of Mexico.

The church reopened for worship from 1832 to 1850, but then was closed to become the library of San Gregorio College. Later, the space had quite a number of uses, including as a dance hall, an army depot and barracks, a correctional school, a mental hospital, and a Customs' storage facility.

From 1921 to 1927, the building was remodeled by José Vasconcelos while he was Secretary of Education and inaugurated as a "Hall of Discussion" with an office dedicated to a campaign against illiteracy. Vasconcelos had the church building redecorated, adding a number of important early modern mural works by Roberto Montenegro. Vasconcelos gave the building to the National University (now UNAM), of which he had been the first rector (president). UNAM manages it to this day. In 1996, the university established the Museum of Light in the building.

In 2010, at the time of the 200th anniversary of Independence and the 100th anniversary of the beginning of the Mexican Revolution, the building was closed to transform it into the Museum of the Constitutions, reflecting its use in 1824. It reopened in 2011. The university moved the Museum of Light to empty space in the former College of San Idefonso, about a half block away. Wikipedia

Encounter with a Beginning


Interior of ex-Colegio San Pedro y San Pablo,
now the Museum of the Constitutions.

When we enter, we see that a huge, modern, curved sculptural form, made of polished vertical wooden boards, takes up almost all of the space. Speaking to the person at the admissions desk, we learn it was recently installed to make a more contemporary and viewer-friendly space for learning about the history of Mexico's numerous constitutions. This remodeling also marks the 100th anniversary of the signing of the Constitution of 1917. Glimpsing a large mural at the rear, we worry that the sculptural form will interfere with viewing Montenegro's work.

Wending our way through the curved space, paying no attention to the recounting of the history of Mexico's multiple constitutions, we make our way to the back space, now made into a kind of small amphitheater for programs. There, in front of us, Montenegro's mural rises over our heads.


Echos of the Classical Past, Transitions to the Modern Future


Having seen so many murals by the Big Three, and by some of their successors, we find this mural a bit odd, yet also familiar. We see Montenegro's Art Deco roots in the huge Tree of Life, which gives the mural its name, and which is a traditional Mexican folk image. But acoss the bottom is ranged a cast of characters that seem out of a 19th century Neo-classic work. We remember the murals in the Reception Hall of the former Secretariat of Communications (now the National Museum of Art), built on the orders of President and dictator Porfiro Díaz at the beginning of the 20th century.

"Science"
Secretariat of Communications/
National Museum of Art
"Art"
Secretariat of Communications/
National Museum of Art
                                  
We also remember what, until this moment, we had thought was the "first"—and also rather strange—mural of the Mural Movement, Diego Rivera's "The Creation", in the Simón Bolivar Auditorium at San Ildefonso.

La Creación
The Creation

Diego Rivera
San Ildefonso

Both the Montenegro and the Rivera murals feature the reserved, rather static and symbolic Neo-classic female figures. Rivera's foreshadow his later rounded, more naturalistic, but still "classic" human figures. 

The Montenegro also reminds us of another mural in San Ildefonso, the first one executed by José Clemente Orozoco

Maternidad
Maternity

José Clemente Orozco
San Ildefonso

The Orozco has more fluidity and dynamism than the Montenegro or the Rivera, but similar Classical and Renaissance imagery, reminiscent of Botticelli. While his Madonna is nude, her origins are in Medieval and Renaissance art. 

Montenegro's mural was executed in 1922. Rivera's The Creation was begun the same year and completed the next. Orozco's was done in 1923. Now seeing that Montenegro's work came first, we wonder how much it may have influenced the style of both Rivera's and Orozco's parallel works, or if the three shared a still-existing tie to classical and Renaissance styles. We know that in their subsequent murals, Rivera and Orozco dramatically broke with this traditional imagery and created their inimitable Modern styles. 

A Puzzling Portrayal of the Meeting (or Not) of Cultures



Examining Montenegro's Tree of Life more closely, we notice a couple of other anomalies. The central figure at the bottom is a Conquistador, probably Hernán Cortés, though with red hair. It is an explicit reference to the Spanish domination of the indigenous culture. It reminds us of Orozoco's powerful Cortés and Malinche in the stairwell at San Ildefonso, and even the first mural by David Siqueiros, which we were recently able to view in San Ildefonso, which portrays, among other figures, a possible Malinche and a defeated indigenous man—conveying the implied message about the outcome of the Spanish Conquest.

Here, with Montenegro, the Spaniard dominates the scene, but has absolutely no relation to the classic, white European women around him. A Diana-like figure on the left seems to aim her arrow directly at him. Wikipedia's account of the mural says this figure was originally one of Guadalupe Victoria, a hero of the War for Independence and Mexico's first president. His shooting of the Conquistador would make some sense: Independence from Spain ends its Colonial domination. But the account says Vasconcelos didn't like the apparenly androgenous representation of Guadalupe Victoria and had Montenegro transform the figure into a classic Goddess Diana. As such, it makes no apparent sense, unless we see the Cortés figure as tied to the Tree of Life and about to be executed. That would also explain why some of the women appear to be weeping.

Another apparent anomaly appears on the right side; among all the white, classically European women, stands a lone dark figure.

An indigenous, "Indian" woman stands
between two European female icons. 

Although the white women stand close to an explicitly indigenous one (who, stylistically, is similar to indigenous women painted by Diego Rivera), they have no structural or thematic relationship to her. Classic European Culture stays far from Mexican Indigenous Culture. The Conquistador is equally isolated from his Classical past and his Mexican future. We know that Vasconcelos favored the teaching of the European Classics—even to Mexico's original peoples—as a "universal" foundation of public education. He also championed Mexicans as the "fifth race"—combining all the races of the world into a new, and better, breed of human being. Perhaps this mural is a hesitant attempt to portray that new union. To our eyes, it does not appear to succeed.

Montenegro painted two other murals in San Pedro y San Pablo, the Fiesta de la Santa Cruz (Festival of the Holy Cross) which depicts a traditional festival on May 3, done between 1923 and 1924, and the Resurrección (Resurrection) which was painted between 1931 and 1933. We had read that they were somewhere in an inner courtyard. We ask some museum employees whether it is possible to see them. They know nothing of them, so we are left with this first mural of the Mural Movement.

Art Nouveau Meets México Folklorico


Surrounding the mural, literally giving it a base, is artistic work that seems to go in a very different direction from the classicism and conceptual conflicts of the mural.



A wainscot of azulejos, blue tiles, provides a base for the large mural and extends to the side walls, providing some connection between it and the surrounding art. Azulejo is a style of porcelain developed by the "Moors" (North African Muslims), who brought it to the Iberian Peninsula. The tiles became a part of Spanish decorative arts and, as such, were brought to Nueva España.

The azulejos frame a series of decorative designs that strike us as a fusion of Mexican folk art and Art Nouveau, with their bright colors, naturalistic shapes and traditional country scenes. In the lower left corner of each image is written: "Painted by Fernández Ledesma".

Later, back at home, we turn to our faithful Wikipedia to find out who this previously unknown artist is.

Another "Lost" Artist


Gabriel Fernández Ledesma was born in 1900, in the state of Aguascalientes, in north-central Mexico. By the time he was fifteen, he was exhibiting his work. At age seventeen, he was given a government scholarship to study at the Academy of San Carlos in Mexico City, which had just reopened after the Revolution. In 1922, Vasconcelos commissioned him to design the tiles for the renovation of the ex-Colegio San Pedro y San Pablo. He subsequently worked with Roberto Montenegro on other projects. He worked as an art teacher and started his own school to teach handicrafts and popular art. He illustrated art magazines and served as head of the editorial offices of the Secretariat of Public Education. He died in 1983.

From Politically Laden Murals to Art Nouveau Decoration


Looking around the full space of the former chapel, we see archways and pillars covered with Art Nouveau decorative painting, full of the stylized flowers and animals that echo Mexican folk art.


Quintessential Art Nouveau
One source attributes this mural to Xavier Guerrero
(see below)


The Zodiac
In the dome of a former side-chapel


By Roberto Montenegro,
possibly with the assistance of Xavier Guerrero (see below)

The stunning cerulean blue reminds us of its use by Rivera in his "Creation" (above)
and by Orozco as a contrasting hope expressed in the background sky
in his portrayals of the suffering of common folk during the Revolution.

Small, informative plates on the wall tell us this decorative Art Nouveau work was done by Montenegro and two other artists, Xavier Guerrero and Jorge Enciso. 

Xavier Guerrero, born in 1896 the northeastern state of Coahuila, learned painting from his father, who worked in masonry and decorating. In 1912, at age sixteen, he moved to Guadalajara, in the western state of Jalisco, to study art. There he learned how to paint fresco murals (on wet plaster). In 1919, he moved to Mexico City. In 1922, Vasconcelos hired him to work with Montenegro in San Pedro y San Pablo. Thereafter, he worked with Rivera in the Secretariat of Public Education and other of that artist's projects. It is thought that Guerrero taught Rivera how to work in fresco. It is also thought that he helped Fernández Ledesma create the wainscot of azulejos tiles and other artists in the design of other elements in San Pedro y San Pablo. Wikipedia

Jorge Enciso was born in 1883, in the state of Jalisco. In 1921, together with Montenegro and Dr. Atl, he organized the first Exhibition of Popular Art celebrating Mexican folk art, which was the first coordinated effort after the Revolution to establish a national identity based on the wide variety of indigenous and folk art traditions. He went on to become an art historian focusing on documenting Mexico's Pre-Columbian and Colonial art. He published illustrated books of Pre-Columbian designs and became Custodian of Colonial Monuments and Assistant Director of the National Institute of Anthropology and History. 

Idealized "Indian Atlas"
Indigenous man.

The verticality and squareness
appear Art Deco to us.

By Manuel Centurion

Manuel Centurion was born in 1883, in the State of Puebla, east of Mexico City. His father was a stone mason. Centurion studied at the Academy of San Carlos, the alma mater of most artists of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In the 1920s he created sculptures for the new Secretariat of Public Education and subsequently created sculptures for a number of government buildings in Mexico City. His style developed from Neo-classicism of the late 19th century to Art Deco of the 1920s and 30s.

Reflections of Louis Comfort Tiffany


Atop the end walls of the transept, crossing the nave, are two other stunningly colorful works.

The Guadalajara Hat Dance

Designed by Roberto Montenegro
Executed by Enrique Villaseñor

(The name does not show up in an Internet search.)

Seller of parakeets

Designed by Roberto Montenegro
Executed by Enrique Villaseñor

The stained glass windows are a complete merger of Mexican folk art themes and images with a technique that was a favorite of Art Nouveau artists. Think Louis Comfort Tiffany. The gorgeous cerulean blue again stands out.

Above the front door is another stained glass work, this one honoring and identifying the space as belonging to the National University of Mexico. 

National University Seal
above the front door.

Stained glass design by Jorge Enciso and Xavier Guerrero
Executed by Enrique Villaseñor

A Moment in and Memento of a Time of Transition


The building originally served the Spanish Colonial purpose of transforming indigenous culture and people into Roman Catholic Spanish ones. In the 1920's—after various other uses—it briefly became a medium in the attempt to forge a specifically Mexican identity. The result reflects the complex batiburrillo (hodgepodge) that is Mexican history and the country that is its outcome. 

The early 1920s was the moment in that history when, after the tumult and conflicting motives of the Mexican Revolution (1910-1920), the country's cultural and intellectual leaders tried to forge a unified concept and representation of Mexican identity. The mural by Roberto Montenegro and the other artistic work by him and a group of Mexican artists that decorate the former colegio—today the Musuem of the Constitutions—were a first attempt at representing that concept of Mexicanism. Their own batiburrillo—a rather forced combination of Neo-classicism, Art Nouveau and Mexican folk art—reflects the difficulty of their undertaking and an at least initial lack of clarity and unity of vision.

The subsequent, more personal works of Roberto Montenegro, as exemplified in his Portrait of a Mexican, which first drew our attention to the artist, show the direction in which he went. The Mexican of his portrait is a self-possesed, modern young man at home in a cosmopolitan world. There is nothing "folk" or traditional about him. Murals on grand themes were not Montenegro's thing. Personal insights were.

Each of the other artists who participated in the project subsequently went his own way. 
  • Gabriel Fernández Ledesma focused his career on promoting Mexican folk art. 
  • Xavier Guerrero was the only one to continue to paint murals, but as an assistant to Diego Rivera, helping him realize his own unique vision and subordinating himself to Rivera's strong ego. 
  • Jorge Enciso became a kind of cultural anthropologist, seeking to record and, thereby, keep alive indigenous, pre-Conquest imagery. 
  • Manuel Centurion adapted the style of his sculptures to whichever one was in vogue at any time and, like Diego Rivera, he regularly worked for the Mexican government to create heroic images for the nation.
  • Enrique Villaseñor remains a mystery. But his gorgeous stained glass windows speak of an apprenticeship, mentally if not actually, to Louis Comfort Tiffany. Art Nouveau stained glass work was much in vogue in the last years of the Porfiriato, the reign of Porfirio Díaz (1876-1911) and continued to be so in the post-revolutionary Mexico City of the upper class.
The Mexican Mural Movement was to go on from this rather jumbled, uncertain beginning, not in a single direction, but along at least three artistic paths forged by the great talents and distinctly strong visions and personalities of the Great Three: Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco and David Alfaro Siqueiros. Mexicans have never followed a single path.