El Niño pa
This past spring, shortly after Easter, while visiting the Pueblo Xoco (SHO-koh), in Delegación Benito Juárez, just north of our home base in Delegación Coyoacán, we met el Niño pa, who was visiting Xoco from his home in Xochimilco, some miles to the south.
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| El Niño pa during his visit to Pueblo Xoco |
El Niño pa (we learn later from Wikipedia en español) is an image of the Child Jesus venerated since Colonial days in Xochimilco. It is a wooden sculpture carved in the sixteenth century from the wood of a native Mexican tree. Scientifically verified to be over 400 years old, it is considered one of the oldest images of Catholic worship in the Americas.
Spanish missionaries evidently created the image to represent the baby Jesus during Posadas, the "Inns"—celebrations held outdoors in the streets of a different barrio each of the nine nights before Christmas, in nightly reenactments of Joseph's and Mary's search for room in an inn (posada) in Bethlehem. El Niño was originally placed in the custody of the indigenous chiefs of Xochimilco and then. for some reason we haven't yet uncovered, given to Spanish hacendados, owners of large estates. El Niño pa does not have a church of his own. Now he is under the rotating custody of the families in the original barrios of Xochimilco.
Currently, El Niño pa is cared for by a committee of representatives from these barrios, under the leadership of a mayordomo, the traditional head of pueblo fiestas. Each February 2, on the feast of Candelaria, there is a major fiesta at which a new mayordomo takes responsibility for El Niño for the coming year. Candelaria (Candlemas in English) is the day of el Niño Jesús, the Child Jesus, as it commemorates his presentation by his parents, Mary and Joseph, forty days after his birth, at the Temple in Jerusalem when he is recognized by an old man, Simeon, as the promised Messiah:
"Lord, now lettest thou thy servant depart in peace, according to thy word:Because Jesus the Christ is recognized as "a light to lighten the Gentiles", lit candles are a symbol for the day, hence the Mass of Candles, Candlemas. It is also known as the Feast of the Purification of the Blessed Virgin Mary and Feast of the Presentation of our Lord Jesus.
For mine eyes have seen thy salvation,
Which thou hast prepared before the face of all people;
A light to lighten the Gentiles, and the glory of thy people Israel."
Gospel of Luke 2:29-32
The mayordomo has major responsibilties. He has to provide many changes of baptismal style dress for the statue, and he has to oversee El Niño's visits to various private homes during the year—a task performed by following a list on which hopeful hosts have inscribed their names. The list is very long, such that it takes many years—even decades—before El Niño arrives in a particular home. Hence, adults usually inscribe the name of one of their children, or even a grandchild! It is a kind of eternal posada, a direct, personal encounter between el pueblo, the common people, and their God, literally on el pueblo's home turf.
And the 'pa'? It's a mystery. Asking la gente, the people, we have been given various explantions: that 'pa' is short for padre, father, hence the child who is the father; that it is short for pan, bread, for the child who becomes "the bread of the world"; and that it is a Nahuatl word for place, hence "child of this place."
We continue to search for an explanation, but, in the meantime, our hunch is that this last interpretation is the correct one, since it would represent the tie of the Catholic Christian el Niño and his people, his pueblo, to their indigenous past (This was confimed. See our Post Script below). The name, like the dual Spanish and indigenous names of many Mexican towns, would be another vestige of the Spiritual Conquest via which the two cultures were merged.
And the 'pa'? It's a mystery. Asking la gente, the people, we have been given various explantions: that 'pa' is short for padre, father, hence the child who is the father; that it is short for pan, bread, for the child who becomes "the bread of the world"; and that it is a Nahuatl word for place, hence "child of this place."
We continue to search for an explanation, but, in the meantime, our hunch is that this last interpretation is the correct one, since it would represent the tie of the Catholic Christian el Niño and his people, his pueblo, to their indigenous past (This was confimed. See our Post Script below). The name, like the dual Spanish and indigenous names of many Mexican towns, would be another vestige of the Spiritual Conquest via which the two cultures were merged.
Candelaria in Xochimilco
So with this initial understanding of the history and significance of el Niño pa de Xochimilco, on the morning of February 2, we set out by taxi for Xochimilco. We know there will be a procession bringing the revered statue from the home of his last host to the Church of San Bernadino de Siena, in the center of what is now the delegación, but which, five hundred years ago, was the center of the altepetl, city-state. We don't know the time the procession is to begin, but we guess it will lead to a Mass at noon or one o'clock, so we arrive at about 11:30.
The traffic on Avenida Guadalupe I. Ramírez, the main entry to the center, is dense and slow-moving. The avenue follows what was originally a causeway across Lake Xochimilco to the city. As we approach a major intersection, we tell the driver that we'll get out there and walk the rest of the way, so he can escape the traffic jam and we can move on.
The Procession
Getting out near the corner, we immediately become aware that the street ahead is closed to traffic, which is causing the jam. We can hear a brass banda playing and realize that the procession we were hoping to catch is passing right in front of us!
Above the heads of the crowd, we see a canopy moving slowly forward, protecting a special personaje, personage, from the Mexican sun. It must be el Niño! We ask a bystander, who confirms this. We move along the street as fast as we can to catch up.
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| El Niño pa, carried by his majordomo |
As the procession moves slowly, we are able to get ahead of the canopy and what it is protecting. It is el Niño pa, this time dressed in a white baptismal gown. Ahead of him are two small andas, platforms, bearing representations of his Holy Mother and his padrino, godfather, Joseph.
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| Mary |
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| Joseph |
In front of the Holy Family, la banda, sets the rhythm.
Farther ahead are several groups of our favorite participants in Mexico City barrio fiestas, chinelos, female and male dancers "disguised" in Moorish-like costumes, who "jump" and twirl as they move steadily along.
Slowly, but with much energy, joy and pride, the procession makes its way toward the Church of San Bernadino de Siena.
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| The banner reads: "Comparsa de Chinelos Ampliación San Marcos" (Dance Group of the Disguised Ones Barrio of St. Mark, Extension) |
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| Each barrio is led by its committee member and his family Here, Jaime Anzurez Morones and family, representing Barrio San Marcos Ampliación |
Slowly, but with much energy, joy and pride, the procession makes its way toward the Church of San Bernadino de Siena.
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| Portal, entrance, to San Bernadino. A huge tent covers the usually open space of the atrio, atrium, inside |
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| In the atrio, hundreds of los fieles, the faithful, await the arrival of el Niño. |
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| Norberto Rivera Carrera Archbishop of City of Mexico |
The Archbishop of Mexico, Norberto Rivera Carrera, and other bishops are present to receive el Niño and celebrate Mass. This is a big deal!
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| Mass begins, in front of the church. |
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| Candles of Candelaria |
Everyone's Niño
Many of los fieles, the faithful, carry their own Niño Jesús, brought from their homes, as El Niño pa is brought from his stay in the homes of the barrios of Xochimilco, to be blessed by the bishop and attending priests. Some are dressed in simple baby clothes, but most wear the elaborate attire of a royal prince at his baptism. Obviously, they are objects de mucho cuidado y cariño, much care and affection. Most of the caretakers are older women, but men and young people, as well, are there to present their niño.
We wonder, once again, as a cultural and religious fuereño, outsider, what this ritual means to its participants, los fieles. Our hunch is that its power lies in a kind of role reversal. Humble, vulnerable human beings, dependent on the good will of their God and at the mercy of the forces of the Universe, get to become, in these moments, with these small figures of the Christ Child, the caretakers of God at the moment He made Himself vulnerable like them, incarnated as a human child, placed in the care, not of the rich and powerful, but of a very ordinary, workingclass couple from a small pueblo in las provincias.
Post Script
A couple of weeks after Candelaria, in mid-February, we return to Xochimilco to experience another fiesta, for Our Virgin of Sorrows of Xaltocán. While walking down Avenida 16 de Septiembre from the center of town, looking for signs of the fiesta in the barrio that lies on the east side of the street, we notice obvious signs of some kind of celebration at the entrance to a street on the west side, which is the Barrio San Pedro, St. Peter.
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| "Welcome, Niño Pa, Xochimilco venerates you." |
The colorful portada and blue and white papel picada (the Virgin's colors) tell us something is up with el Niño in San Pedro, another of the original barrios of Xochimilco. So setting aside our search for the church of Xaltocán, we turn down this side street. In all our past experiences in Mexico we have learned that such detours always lead somewhere well worth discovering.
About two short blocks ahead, we spot a small stone chapel.
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| Chapel of St. Peter |
Arriving at the door, we see that inside the simple space a kind of Sunday school lesson is being taught by a lay woman to a small group. Outside, a handful of people are hanging out in a small courtyard to one side. So we ask them the reason for the portada and papel celebrating el Niño.
They happily explain that he is now residing in a house just up the street. A young man offers to lead us there. We quickly arrive at the wide, courtyard entrance to a modest but modern house. Thanking el joven, youth, for his amable, kind, considerate help, we cross the street to enter the open courtyard.
Meeting El Niño once again
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| "Pretty child, beautiful child, Fine-looking boy, loving boy. I come to ask of you, as (you are) generous, that this sorrow that I carry you may turn into joy, as you are my father and my kind-hearted God." |
The finely done calligraphy on the outside wall communicates both the meaning of the Child as the incarnation of the Father God that we had previously sensed, and His role in ameliorating life's troubles. By demonstrating loving care for him, devotion and respect, the faithful can hope that, in return, he will provide a blessing in their everyday lives.
The courtyard, itself, is a most pleasant, tranquil space, with a small garden of well landscaped plants and stones and a working fountain on one side and, hanging on the opposite wall, several large bouquets of flowers.
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| To the usual white lilies are added Phalaenopsis, "butterfly" orchids! |
To the rear of the courtyard is the wide-open entrance to a room in the modest but contemporary home. As we approach, we think that whoever is in charge of this presentation certainly has a fine aesthetic sense. As we walk toward the room, a few people come and go.
Inside we see a number of people quietly sitting in rows of folding chairs, facing the rear of the space. It reminds us of a wake at a funeral home, with people silently paying their respects, but here the object of that respect isn't a deceased, but a centuries-old image of a child who has and can bestow eternal life.
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| El Niño Pa His peach gown matches his cheeks. The solar disc behind announces the Presence of the Divine Power. |
A matronly woman, dresssed in her Sunday best, is standing at the entrance and welcomes us, advising us not to use flash for any photos. We assure her that we never use flash and share that we first met el Niño nearly a year ago in Barrio Xoco, in Benito Juárez, and were at His Candelaria celebration here just two weeks ago. She is very pleased that we are so acquainted with Him.
We then ask our question about the meaning of "Pa": is it short for padre, father, or pan, bread? She tells us, with a tone of sureness, that it is Nauhuatl and means "of this place". He is the Child of this place, Xochimilco's own. Our assumption is confirmed!
La señora then offers to introduce us to a casually but neatly dressed middle-aged man who is standing on the other side of the doorway, talking to people as they arrive and leave. He holds an appointment book in his hands and sometimes writes as he talks. He is evidently the host of el Niño's visit. This is his home. He is, la señora tells me, el mayordomo!
As we are introduced, we can hardly contain our excitment and speak coherent Spanish! Mayordomos are the persons in charge of planning and overseeing a barrio or pueblo's fiestas. The mayordomo of el Níño Pa has an even greater responsibility. He must care for El Niño for an entire year, from one Candelaria to the next. He must provide clothing and a pleasant room, always full of fresh flowers, and he must arrange the visits that the Child takes to other homes, even in other boroughs of the city, such as Xoco. All of this while assuring the safety of this nearly five hundred-year old, truly priceless and irreplaceable infant.
The mayordomo of el Niño Pa, who is just beginning his year of care, is Sr. Enrique Hernández. He is an architect, which is reflected in the aesthetics of the calligraphy on the outer wall and the courtyard decor. In his date book he is signing up people to host El Niño for a day and provide a merienda, a late afternoon, light meal to anyone who comes that day. We are a bit surprised by this, as we had read that the list of visits was made far in advance, even years ahead.
El señor is muy amable, and happy to explain to us what is happening, but he constantly has to interrupt our chat to attend to the visitors who greet him and often sign up for a merienda. So we express our deep sense of being honored to meet him, thank him for this marvelous opportunity and depart to continue our search for the fiesta in Xaltocán.
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| Sr. Enrique Hernández Troncoso and his mother, la Sra. Esperanza Troncoso Aguirre Mayordomos of Niño Pa, Feb. 2017-18. From Facebook page of Guardianes del Patrimonio de Xochimilco |
After we have left, we realize we didn't ask to take his photo. Oh, well, we got to see El Niño Pa in the kind of family space he will inhabit for this year, witness the quiet devotion he is paid, confirm the meaning of 'Pa' and, best of all, meet an actual mayordomo!
Yes, Niño Pa, Xochimilco venerates you. May you turn its sorrows into joy.
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| Delegación Xochimilco is large pink area in southeast Mexico City |
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| Barrios, Pueblos and Colonias of Delegación Xochimilco Barrios of original altepetl of Xochimilco marked by yellow star. Ecological Park of chinampas and canals is gray-green area in northeast Southern side of delegación is mostly mountainous forest preserve. |
See also:
Xochimilco: Field of Flowers Still Blooms
Xoco, the Little Barrio That Survives
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